Roof Replacement Johnson County: Post-Installation Inspection Checklist

A new roof should feel like a deep breath after a long storm. The trucks leave, the last nail gets driven, and your home is finally sealed against Kansas winds and summer hail. That sense of relief is earned, but it is not the end. The first days after a roof replacement are crucial. A thorough post-installation inspection protects warranties, catches small missteps before they become leaks, and documents the condition in case the next thunderhead brings golf ball hail or a January ice dam. I have walked plenty of Johnson County driveways with homeowners during those first inspections. The good ones are systematic. The great ones are boring, because nothing is wrong. That is the goal.

This guide lays out a practical, on-the-ground checklist for a post-installation review tailored to Johnson County roof systems. It covers steep-slope shingle roofs primarily, since asphalt is the norm from Olathe to Overland Park, but the same habits help with stone-coated steel, composite shingles, and standing seam metal. I will note variations where it matters. Whether you hired one of the established roofers Johnson County trusts or a storm-chasing crew that flashed a yard sign after a wind event, you can use this process and know your new roof installation meets both manufacturer standards and regional realities.

Why the first week matters in Johnson County

Our weather tests roofing in fast cycles. A spring install might meet a 50 mile per hour gust within days. Autumn jobs see freeze-thaw nights before sealant strips fully bond. Summer heat can push attic temperatures above 120 degrees by early afternoon. These swings compress the timeline for issues to show themselves. Thermal expansion reveals fastener problems. A quick thunderstorm exposes flashing and valley workmanship. That does not mean you should expect trouble. It means you should look with intention while the crew is still reachable, materials are fresh in everyone’s mind, and any touch-up can be handled without scaffolding or excuses.

Insurers also care about documentation. Many homeowners in Johnson County replace roofs after hail claims. Adjusters often request proof of code-compliant materials, proper ventilation, and ice and water protection. A dated photo set and written notes taken right after the roof replacement carry more weight than vague recollections two winters later. If you pursue class 3 or class 4 impact-resistant shingle credits, your carrier may require the exact product and installation specs. Capture that now.

Start at the curb: alignment, edges, and first impressions

Stand back far enough to see each roof plane from eave to ridge. You are not looking for beauty alone. Straight courses, crisp lines, and consistent reveal speak to careful installation. An irregular pattern can be cosmetic, or it can warn that a crew chased a crooked starter strip and introduced gaps. The eye catches wavy lines. Step closer and check:

    Shingle alignment and exposure: The reveal should match the manufacturer’s spec, usually in the range of 5 to 6.5 inches depending on product. Course lines should run parallel to the eaves. On laminated architectural shingles, look for blended, not repetitive, patterns. A consistent stagger reduces buckling risk. Edge conditions: Drip edge should be installed along all eaves and rakes, beneath underlayment at the eaves and above at the rakes to shed water correctly. It should sit tight to the fascia with a clean hem. Overhang should typically land around a half inch beyond the fascia or gutter lip to guide runoff into the trough, not behind it. Valleys: Open metal valleys should present a centered, straight line with clipped shingle corners and visible chalk lines, not tar smears. Closed-cut valleys should show a neat, straight cut with no top laps pointing upslope. Flashing color and integration: New step and counterflashing should match or complement the shingle color and siding. Painted faces should not be oversprayed onto shingles.

If something looks off from 40 feet away, it deserves a closer look on the roof or from a ladder. Do not climb unless you are comfortable and the roof is dry. Many issues are visible from windows, binoculars, or a zoomed phone camera.

Gutters, downspouts, and the mess everyone forgets

A clean work site matters for safety, but it also predicts how long the roof will last. Loose nails in gutters oxidize and stain. Shingle granules flow like sand after a roof replacement, and that is normal for the first rains, yet an overwhelmed downspout can dump water against the foundation.

Run water from a hose on the furthest ridge and watch gutter performance. Check for leaks at seams, proper slope to downspouts, and splash blocks that actually catch discharge. If new gutters were part of the scope, look for hidden hangers spaced roughly every two feet, or tighter spacing on heavy steel systems. The drip edge should lap inside the gutter, not behind it. If you see water tracking behind the gutter during a test, a small kick-out adjustment or apron can fix it.

While you are there, sweep magnet rollers across the driveway, lawn edges, and mulched beds. A good crew will do this daily. You will still collect a handful of siders and hand-drive nails, especially if the old roof had cedar underlayment or multiple asphalt layers. I have found nails embedded in soil six inches from a playset slide. Take your time.

Documentation you should already have in hand

Before shingles were loaded, you should have seen a material list and a scope from the contractor. After completion, ask for a closeout packet. Many roofers Johnson County homeowners hire will provide this automatically, but it is fair to insist on it if not. The essentials:

    Product names and lot numbers: Shingles, underlayment, ice and water shield, ridge vents, pipe boots, starter strips, hip and ridge caps, and flashing metals. Photograph labels on leftover bundles and underlayment rolls. Warranty registrations: Manufacturer limited warranty and any enhanced warranty if the contractor is certified by the brand. Installer workmanship warranty on company letterhead with term length, typically 3 to 10 years. Code compliance notes: Proof that the job meets local codes, including decking repair records, ventilation calculations, and permit sign-off. Johnson County municipalities vary. Overland Park, Olathe, Lenexa, and Shawnee share fundamentals, but inspectors may emphasize different items like ice barrier coverage or baffle installation.

If a manufacturer offers impact-resistance certification, your insurer might request shingle proof for discounts. Keep a copy of the Class 3 or Class 4 documentation, often a UL 2218 report and a statement from the brand.

Underlayment, ice protection, and the unseen layers

Most new roof installations use a synthetic underlayment now, lighter and more tear-resistant than felt. Press a hand up under a loose shingle at the eave to feel that layer. It should lay flat, overlap according to spec, and terminate cleanly at the drip edge. If you had ice and water shield installed, confirm coverage along the eaves at least 24 inches inside the exterior wall line. Many Johnson County homes have shallow overhangs, so the minimum often translates to one full sheet upslope plus the eave line. In valleys and around penetrations, ice shield should extend well past the vulnerable zones. Small cuts or patches around pipe boots are normal as long as overlaps are tight and edges are sealed.

Decking matters more than most homeowners realize. If your old roof had multiple layers or cedar shakes under asphalt, the crew should have installed solid sheathing. Look for deck screw patterns along eaves or inside the attic where visible. If you were promised deck repairs, request photos showing the areas and measurements of replaced sheets. I have seen 36 square roofs that needed only three sheets, and others where 20 sheets were rotted around the north slope eaves from years of poorly vented bathrooms. Transparency prevents disputes later.

Flashing: the small metal parts that save entire rooms

Water rarely punches straight through shingles. It sneaks where two materials meet. Flashing is your guardrail at those intersections. Walk each surface transition.

Chimneys should have step flashing woven with each shingle course and a counterflashing that tucks into a mortar reglet or under siding. Caulk alone is not a flashing. If you see beads of sealant smeared over the face of a chimney, ask the contractor to correct it. Brick needs a cut-in counter, ideally with soldered or pre-formed corners. Wood or vinyl cladding can use a surface-mounted counterflashing, but it should lap the step flashing by several inches and be fastened high.

Sidewalls where a roof meets a vertical wall need step flashing under each shingle course. In Johnson County, I often see kick-out flashing omitted at the base of a wall where it meets a gutter return. That little diverter prevents water from riding behind stucco or siding. If your home has EIFS or fiber cement, a kick-out is nonnegotiable. A missing diverter can rot sheathing and framing inside a year when storms hit weekly.

Plumbing vents should be snug in new boots with a clean seal around the pipe. Neoprene rings in cheap boots crack in five to eight years. For longer life, consider TPO or silicone boots, or a two-piece metal-and-rubber design with a UV cap. If you paid for upgraded accessories, confirm they are present, not swapped for bargain versions.

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Skylights deserve extra attention. If yours were older than 10 to 12 years, the roofer should have recommended replacement during the roof replacement. New flashing kits for Velux or comparable units integrate with shingles and underlayment. Look for continuous ice and water up the sides and head flashing. If you kept old skylights, confirm the curb flashing was replaced, not just caulked.

Ridges, hips, and ventilation: the lungs of your home

Attic ventilation in our climate is both energy and durability protection. A ridge vent only helps if intake at the eaves is adequate. During your inspection, step into the attic on a cool morning. With the sun warming the roof, you should feel a subtle draft rising at the ridge when a hatch opens. Look for:

    Ridge vent installation: The ridge cut should be even and the vent centered with a continuous run. Fasteners should land in the sheathing, not just in the vent fabric. Ridge cap shingles should be consistent, with exposed nails properly placed and sealed if required by the product. Intake ventilation: Soffit vents should be clear. If you see baffles between rafters at the eaves, that is good. They keep insulation from blocking airflow. If insulation has slumped into the soffit bays, air stops and moisture builds. Balanced net free area: The ratio of intake to exhaust should be close to even. If the roofer added box vents on a roof that also has a ridge vent, that mixed system can short circuit. In general, use one type of exhaust. If power vents exist, confirm the contractor did not leave them running with a ridge vent in place. A mismatched system can pull conditioned air out of the home while leaving dead zones.

Ventilation affects warranties. Many shingle manufacturers require a minimum ventilation rate. If inadequate, they may prorate or deny claims for premature aging. Ask your contractor for ventilation calculations if you suspect your home was on the margin.

Fasteners, sealant, and the quiet details

A shingle roof is a controlled pattern of nails. Overdriven or underdriven nails cause problems later. An overdriven nail can cut through the shingle mat, leaving the course unstable. An underdriven nail lifts the shingle and invites wind to get a finger under the edge. On the ground, you cannot verify every fastener, but you can spot signs. Dimples around nail heads indicate overdriving. Tent-shaped lifts at the end of shingles hint at improper seating. The best crews use calibrated guns and pause when compressors cycle.

Sealant is a helper, not a crutch. You will see small beads at flashing laps and under exposed nails in flashing pans or metal valleys. You should not see long smears across shingles. Excess sealant ages poorly in UV and traps debris.

On metal roofs, the fastener story shifts. Standing seam systems use concealed clips and expansion joints. The inspection focuses on straight seams, properly hemmed eaves, and sealed penetrations with purpose-made boots and curbs. If your Johnson County home has standing seam or stone-coated steel, ask the installer to walk the seams with you and explain clip spacing and thermal allowances. In summer heat, metal grows, and details matter.

The attic check: moisture, light, and smell

The attic tells the truth. Bring a flashlight. Look up at the underside of the roof deck. On a fresh job, the wood should be dry and free of new stains. If you see daylight where there should be none, like at valley intersections or around vents, mark the spots and share photos with the contractor. A hairline of light at the ridge vent can be normal depending on the product, but gaping slits are not.

Touch the insulation near bath fan ducts. It should be dry. Bathroom fans must vent to the exterior through properly flashed roof caps, not into the attic. This is a common corner cut. Moist exhaust will dampen decking, feed mold, and shorten shingle life from below. If your fan duct is just lying in the insulation, ask for a roof cap installation with a backdraft damper.

Sniff for asphalt odor. A faint smell after a hot day is expected. A strong tar odor, especially near valleys or around a chimney, can indicate heavy reliance on mastic or an exposed underlayment seam. Note it and follow up.

Common Johnson County nuances: code, hail, and HOA realities

Local codes typically require ice barrier along the eaves, even though our worst ice dam years fluctuate. Ask how far it extends. Municipal inspectors in Overland Park and Lenexa may require additional ice and water at complex valleys and behind stucco terminations. If your home has a low-slope section tied into a steeper main roof, that area may demand a modified bitumen or TPO transition rather than standard shingles. Check what was installed.

Hail drives many roof replacements. If you upgraded to a class 4 shingle for insurance credits, verify that the hip and ridge caps are the matching impact-rated product. Some crews use standard caps to save money, which can jeopardize your credit. You will find the rating on bundle wrappers. Photograph them.

HOAs in Johnson County can be particular about color and style. Keep a copy of your approval letter with your documentation in case of leadership changes. Take wide shots that show the final color in daylight, preferably on a sunny and on a cloudy day. It reduces disputes when a neighbor’s memory of your original roof tone softens a year later.

Water tests and storm shakedowns

If rain is in the forecast, great. Watch the roof during a moderate storm. Note any dripping at window headers, ceiling corners, or around recessed lights. In a dry spell, perform a controlled hose test. Start low, then move upslope. Soak one area at a time for several minutes. Do not blast water up under shingles, as that defeats gravity and gives you a false failure. The goal is to simulate prolonged rain, not a pressure wash. If you see a leak, photograph and mark it. Reputable contractors respond quickly to first-week issues. They know a small patch now protects their reputation and your home.

Payment timing and retainage

If your contract allows it, hold a small portion of payment until after your inspection and any agreed punch-list items are complete. On insurance-driven jobs, the final check often arrives after the carrier receives a completion certificate. Communicate with your roofer. Good roofers Johnson County homeowners praise do not flinch at a fair, documented punch list.

Long-term touchpoints: what to expect over the first season

Shingles have sealant strips that activate with heat and sun. In cool weather, bonding can take weeks. You may see slight lifting at lamination lines on a crisp morning that settles by afternoon. That is normal. If whole shingle tabs remain raised after several warm days, call the contractor to hand-seal. Wind standards vary by product, often 110 to 130 miles per hour with enhanced nailing patterns. Ask what pattern was used. High-wind patterns typically use six nails per shingle instead of four.

Granule runoff looks dramatic in the first heavy rain. Gutters can carry a coffee cup’s worth of granules from a typical roof in that first wash. That is manufacturing surplus, not shingle loss. If you still see heavy granules in downspouts after several storms, ask for an inspection.

Caulks and sealants at flashings may cure, shrink slightly, and then sit stable for years. Expect to refresh some exposed sealant around year five to seven, especially on southern exposures. A spring maintenance check with a roofer saves headaches. If you own a two-story with limited access, request a maintenance program. Many companies that handle roof replacement Johnson County wide offer annual or biennial plans that include gutter cleaning, minor sealing, and fastener checks.

What should be on your punch list

Keep the punch list short and specific. Broad complaints help nobody. After dozens of walk-throughs, here are the items that most often earn a second visit for a new roof installation:

    Missing or misaligned kick-out flashing at a wall-to-gutter transition Loose or rattling ridge vent sections that were not fastened into decking Visible nail heads on hip and ridge cap not sealed per manufacturer guidance Pipe boots not seated flush on textured shingles, leaving upstream gaps Drip edge not integrated into gutter apron, causing water to wick behind the gutter

One or two of these on a complex roof does not mean your project failed. It means you are paying attention and your contractor should finish strong.

Insurance supplements and scope changes

Many storm claims start with an adjuster’s estimate that misses code-required items. As the job progresses, the contractor submits supplements for decking replacement, additional ice and water, or ventilation corrections. Do not assume padding. I have seen a base estimate for a 28 square roof grow by 15 percent after opening up rotted eaves and discovering unvented bath fans. Your role is to match added costs with visible work and documentation. Ask for photos and line items. If the carrier pushes back, your contractor’s records plus your inspection notes help.

When to call an independent inspector

If you sense more than punch-list issues, hire a third-party inspector. In Johnson County, you can find certified residential roof inspectors who charge a few hundred dollars for a detailed report. It is money well spent if you suspect systemic problems like widespread overdriven nails, improper valley construction, or missing underlayment on low slopes. Share the report with your contractor and give them a chance to address findings. Most legitimate companies would rather fix than fight, especially with clear evidence in hand.

A calm, thorough walkthrough script

Clarity helps conversation. When I guide homeowners, we move clockwise around the house, then inside. We note observations in neutral terms. Instead of “the gutters are wrong,” say “water is running behind the gutter at the northwest corner during a hose test.” Instead of “the shingles look wavy,” say “the exposure on the front left plane varies by roughly half an inch https://elliottgell300.trexgame.net/the-connection-between-regular-inspections-and-timely-roof-replacements over six courses.” Specifics invite solutions. Vague criticism invites defensiveness.

If your contractor handled everything correctly, thank them and leave an honest review. Good tradespeople live on word of mouth in our county. If they missed a few things and then made it right, that is a positive story too.

A concise homeowner checklist you can carry

    Photograph labels of all materials used and keep installer and manufacturer warranties Confirm drip edge, starter strip, straight shingle courses, and clean valley work Verify step flashing, counterflashing, and kick-outs at all wall intersections Check ridge vent continuity and soffit intake, and avoid mixed exhaust systems Perform a hose test on suspect areas and document any leaks immediately

Final thoughts from the field

A roof is a system, not just shingles. If the visible finish looks sharp and the hidden layers were built with care, the system will forgive small storms, bad days of wind, and the occasional clogged gutter. Most Johnson County roofs I inspect after replacement are solid. When problems show up, they cluster around the same details: walls without kick-outs, skylights carried over with old flashing, ventilation that looks good on paper but starves at the soffit, or a valley that depends on caulk.

You do not need to become a roofer to catch these. You need an hour, a ladder or good vantage point, patience, and the willingness to ask for proof. The right contractor welcomes that conversation. The roofers Johnson County relies on for repeat business know a careful post-installation inspection is not an accusation, it is the last step of a thorough roof replacement.

If you are reading this with a fresh roof and a little anxiety about the next storm, take the checklist, take a walk, and take notes. A quiet roof in the next rain is the best return on that effort.

My Roofing
109 Westmeadow Dr Suite A, Cleburne, TX 76033
(817) 659-5160
https://www.myroofingonline.com/

My Roofing provides roof replacement services in Cleburne, TX. Cleburne, Texas homeowners face roof replacement costs between $7,500 and $25,000 in 2025. Several factors drive your final investment. Your home's size matters most. Material choice follows close behind. Asphalt shingles cost less than metal roofing. Your roof's pitch and complexity add to the price. Local labor costs vary across regions. Most homeowners pay $375 to $475 per roofing square. That's 100 square feet of coverage. An average home needs about 20 squares. Your roof protects everything underneath it. The investment makes sense when you consider what's at stake.